‘Mejico’ opens new front in Mexican invasion of Bangkok

COCONUTS HOT SPOT — It’s always baffled me: Why aren’t there more Mexican restaurants in Thailand? There seems to be a great deal of kinship between the two cuisines; they both make good use of the heat from peppers, there’s a shared emphasis on fresh, citrusy flavors and ingredients, and of course, the mutual love for the staple starch, rice.

It seems the crossover to Mexican food would be natural for the Thai palate, and I’ve never met a farang who doesn’t like Mexican, or even the Tex-Mex that Americans frequently confuse with authentic Mexican fare.

2015 might be the year of the Mexican trend, and it might start with Groove’s new joint, Mejico. The concrete-clad space hails from the land down under, and it attempts to take Mexican upmarket while scaling down portions for a tapas-like dining experience. When eaten this way, it’s closer to that family-style we’re accustomed to in Thailand, although there’s something semi-disappointing about a mini-taco. The two mini-tacos come served on a slate, and there are ample choices: chicken (THB185), braised pork (THB185), grille blue hake fish (THB215), grilled vegetable (THB185), or the most unique offering, soft shell crab (THB235).

It’s easy to forego the tapas-style plates for something a little more substantial, however. Australian rib eye steak (THB895), done in a mushroom sauce, makes an appearance, even though it’s not particularly Mexican. Vegetable Paella (THB285), a favorite from Spain, also graces the menu. For the ultimate unctuousness try out the twice cooked pork belly (THB275), it’s slathered in a zesty lime and chili sauce that does a great job of cutting through the fat and making the dish seem lighter than it actually is.

Where Mejico really shines and adheres to Mexican tradition is in the drink list. I didn’t see the bottles behind the bar, but Mejico claims to bring in a whopping 40 varieties of tequila, perhaps one of the most underrated spirits. They way they break down the tequila into blanco, reposado, and anejo (blanco is clear, anejo turns dark and smoky from aging, reposado is in the middle) helps educate drinkers on this underappreciated booze. The inclusion of mezcal is also an indicator that Mejico means business. Mezcal is a distilled from another type agave plant (only blue gave is used in tequila) that lends an earthy, smoky flavor to the drink. It’s the kind of of booze that will put some hair on your chest, and it’s well worth a try.  

If Mejico is well received then 2015 could very well be the year Bangkok fully embraces Mexican food. Recuerden mis palabras.



FIND IT:

Mejico
Second floor, Groove @ Central World
11am – 1am



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